If you're looking to enhance the handling, stability, and overall performance of your W-Body vehicle, a suspension upgrade is one of the most impactful areas to focus on. Here's a detailed guide covering all the key components you should consider for your Gen 2 or Gen 3 W-Body car:

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1. Strut Tower Braces​

Strut tower braces improve chassis rigidity by reducing flex between the strut towers. This upgrade enhances cornering performance and overall steering response.

• Front Strut Tower Brace: Provides better control under hard cornering.
  • Link: ZZPerformance Front Strut Tower Brace
  • Link: BMR Front Strut Tower Brace
• Rear Strut Tower Brace: Adds stability to the rear suspension.
  • Link: BMR Rear Strut Tower Brace
  • Link: ZZPerformance Rear Strut Tower Brace

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2. Tubular Control Arms​

Tubular control arms reduce weight and improve suspension geometry for better handling. They also enhance durability compared to factory arms.

• Front Tubular Control Arms:
  • Link: ZZPerformance Tubular Control Arms
  • Link: LS4King Tubular Control Arms - Arrival times May vary
• Rear Tubular Control Arms:
  • Link: BMR Rear Control Arms

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3. Polyurethane Bushings​

Replacing stock rubber bushings with polyurethane improves suspension response, reduces flex, and enhances durability.

• Complete Poly Bushing Kits:
  • Link: LINK N/A

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4. Sway Bars​

Upgrading your sway bars reduces body roll during cornering, improving overall handling and driver confidence.

• Front Sway Bar:
  • Link: ZZPerformance Front Sway Bar
  • MORE TO BE ADDED
• Rear Sway Bar:
  • Link: ZZPerformance Rear Sway Bar
  • MORE TO BE ADDED

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5. Sway Bar End Links​

Performance sway bar end links ensure proper sway bar function and enhance stability.

• Heavy-Duty Sway Bar End Links:
  • Link: ZZPerformance Sway Bar End Links
  • MORE TO BE ADDED

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6. Solid Subframe Bushings​

Solid subframe bushings eliminate unnecessary movement of the subframe, allowing for more predictable suspension behavior.

• Solid Subframe Mounts:
  • Link: LS4King solid subframe bushings (aluminum cradle) - Arrival times may vary

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7. Coilovers​

Coilovers offer adjustable ride height and damping, allowing you to fine-tune your car's suspension to your driving style and road conditions.

• Adjustable Coilover Kits:
  • Link: ZZPerformance Coilovers
  • Link: BCracing Wbody Coilovers
  • MORE TO BE ADDED

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Additional Upgrades​

• Performance Shocks and Struts: To complement the new suspension setup if you don't do coil overs.
• Alignment Adjustments: After completing these upgrades, invest in a professional alignment for optimal performance.
• Brake Upgrades: Since you'll be cornering faster and harder, upgrading your braking system is a great complement to these mods. - separate thread will be made.

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Conclusion​

With these suspension modifications, your W-Body will handle like never before. Whether you're chasing lap times or enjoying spirited driving, these upgrades are sure to bring out the best in your car. Have fun wrenching, and feel free to share your setup and results!

Happy modding!

A map to your car

A little back history to explain The Last Indian

I’m not that guy that does car shows. I just do cars for me! To please me! For the pleasure of seeing an idea live! I had a custom 1969 Z/28 for 35 years! Most of the car was custom designed and handmade, including the full frame with an OEM type suspension front and rear, not coil overs in the back like you often see with full frame conversions, but it was so much more than that! For a myriad of reasons I sold it and a “74” Z/28 that was custom as well in 2004 after 35 and 30 years of ownership!

I had bought a brand new 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix as a daily driver, so after selling the Camaros I decided to take the GP for a summer only car with only 10,000 mi. and for a FWD it wasn’t bad. It wasn’t great mind you in my way of thinking, but I loved the updated Coke bottle shape and styling! So I thought I was done modifying & customizing cars I was just going to drive it. I had done a lot with cars at multiply levels, maybe it was time to refocus on something new, not sure what, maybe bird watching? Well the boredom lasted a year! So I embarked on a new path, a path that I didn’t know would became that of The Last American Indian! With the seventh generation Grand Prix being the last American designed & built Pontiac and the end of Pontiac as a car company occurring just a few short years later!

I had always owned RWD cars until the GP, but I found myself realizing all I had ever seen anyone do with a FWD, was either cosmetic things or on the engineering side, power or drifting. Yet no true performance handling, no true blend of drivetrain performance, handling and style! Especially not in an American car and not in the vein of the old muscle car era ground pounders and most assuredly not performance handling. A car that handles & responds as though it’s part of you! I remember when the first gen Camaro was called the poor man’s Porsche and that was what inspired me to make mine better than that! Why not a similar mind set with FWD I thought? Drifting isn’t powering thru a corner and it certainly isn’t handling, so l thought, try something different!

For me what resulted was proof, that given the proper changes & redesigning of the stand alone MS2000 platform (1997-2003) this W-body can hold its own against all the great muscle cars of the past! Maybe even beat some!

Modifications: Nearly Everything!

All suspension – custom & aftermarket.

Wheels – custom made by American Racing for me.

Body – custom designed, made by owner, MPD hood, 2003 limited edition rear spoiler, lower front splitter & more.

Brakes – custom (OEM modified by owner) 70 mph stopping distance 143 feet.

Engine – heads, throttle body, exhaust, motor mounts, ECM, Ram Air intake, etc.

Engine bay was largely dismantled & clear coated.

Transmission – shift kit, special fluid, tranny cooler.

Car physics – center of gravity (lowered), roll center (raised), weight distribution (54/46), track width (73.5/73.25 vs 61.7/61.1) static stability factor (1.76)

Aesthetics – custom grilles (frt. Cover & hood) emblems throughout car, custom front cover, custom rear cover, engine pieces, steering wheel, pedals, shift knob, sill plates, wheel centers, spare tire cover

Battery relocation to trunk (under spare tire)

Custom lighting & HID headlights & fog lights

Engine and Powertrain Mods

1. PowerBond Underdrive Pulley
   
   • 25% Underdrive Pulley by Power Bond: Shifts the power curve for quicker throttle response and improved performance.
   • Part Number PB621-A
2. Cold Air Intakes
   
   • K&N Cold Air Intake: A tried-and-true upgrade to improve airflow.
   • Part number 69-4526TS
   • Overkill Motorsport ASI Intake: Larger 3.5-inch diameter, designed for maximum airflow. Requires tuning for optimal performance.
   • Part Number N/A
   • Airflow Dynamics Intake: Another high-performance option for better airflow and cooler intake temperatures.
   • Part Number 1314-CI-HS
   • Custom 3.5-Inch Fender well Intake: A DIY option that pulls cool air from outside the engine bay, reducing heat soak and enhancing performance.
   • Part Number DIY
3. Intake Manifold Spacer
   
   • JacFab 3.5-inch Spacer: Proven to improve intake airflow and performance compared to smaller spacers.
   • Part Number N/A
4. Throttle Body
   
   • 80mm Throttle Body by Overkill Motorsport: Enhances airflow and throttle responsiveness, paired with a spacer adapter for easy installation.
   • Part Number N/A
5. Magnaflow Downpipes
   
   • Performance Downpipes: Adds up to 20 whp and 22 wtq by improving exhaust flow and reducing backpressure, making it a highly effective bolt-on upgrade.
   • Part Numbers 52184 (front) 52185 (rear) 52107 (middle)
6. MACE Camshaft Upgrade
   
   • Adds up to 35 whp with the correct tuning. A significant boost to top-end power, making it a perfect match for other bolt-ons.
   • Part Number CAM669-A
7. Catch Can
   
   • Direct injection engines like the LFX are prone to carbon buildup on intake valves. Installing a catch can reduces oil blow-by and helps maintain long-term engine health and performance.
   • Part Number (no direct fit catch cans are available, make a custom set up)
8. Tuning Options
   
   • Overkill Tune: Tailored for the LFX platform, delivering better power, torque, and drivability.
   • Part Number LINK
   • Custom HP Tuners Tune: Allows for complete customization of your engine parameters, ideal for advanced setups.
   • Part number HPTUNER MPVIx
   • Trifecta Tune: A simpler, plug-and-play option for those seeking a hassle-free tuning solution.
   • Part Number LINK
9. Transmission Swap
   • 6T75E Transmission:
     • An easy and effective upgrade, offering a stronger transmission with better durability.
     • Choose a 2.77 or 3.16 final drive ratio for improved acceleration and overall performance.
     • Part Number JUNKYARD OR NEW

Expected Results

• With the simple bolt-ons and tuning, expect 280-300 whp with excellent drivability.
• Adding the MACE camshafts can push output to 320-330 whp, equivalent to 430-450 bhp.
• The 6T75E transmission swap ensures smooth power delivery and reliability under higher output.

Forced Induction Options

If you’re after serious power, forced induction is the way to go. Adding a supercharger or turbocharger will significantly increase horsepower, but be warned—this route is far more complex and requires careful planning and setup.

• Supercharger: Adding a supercharger can push your LFX engine to 400-500 whp, depending on the setup and tuning. A supercharger provides instant power and torque, making it ideal for street and track use.
• Turbocharger: A turbocharger setup can yield similar results, often reaching 450-500 whp, with the added benefit of better fuel efficiency compared to a supercharger. However, turbo setups are more complicated and may require additional modifications like intercoolers, piping, and custom tuning.

Lowering Compression for Forced Induction

• Rebuilding the Bottom End: To safely run forced induction, you may need to lower the compression ratio of your engine. This involves rebuilding the bottom end with forged internals (e.g., pistons, rods) to handle the added boost pressure. This is a must-do for higher boost levels and ensures long-term reliability under forced induction.

Custom Forced Induction Setup

Keep in mind that adding forced induction requires a custom setup, as the stock engine wasn’t designed for this type of power. You'll need custom fabrication, a proper intercooler, stronger fuel injectors, upgraded fuel system, and extensive tuning. Forced induction is a more advanced and complex route than simple bolt-ons, but it’s the ultimate path for serious performance gains.

Why E85 is Great for More Power in Your LFX Engine
E85, a blend of 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline, is an excellent choice for boosting performance in your LFX engine. It offers several advantages:

1. Increased Power: E85’s higher octane allows for more aggressive tuning and higher boost, increasing power by up to 10-15%.
2. Cooler Combustion: The ethanol burns cooler than gasoline, reducing the risk of knocking and allowing your engine to run safely under higher stress.
3. No Need for Upgrades: E85 can be used without needing modifications to your fuel system. It’s safe for the stock setup, making it an easy and cost-effective way to boost power.

Make sure you have access to E85 in your area, and pair it with a custom tune to maximize performance!

Disclaimer:

Please note that some of the parts and upgrades mentioned in this guide may no longer be readily available, particularly intake manifold spacers, which may require custom fabrication or sourcing alternatives. However, for intakes, camshafts, and most other parts, these remain available for purchase through various vendors, though availability can vary depending on your location or the specific part.

Before beginning your build, make sure to check the availability of all parts. If certain components are hard to find, consider reaching out to the community or specialized shops for custom solutions. Custom fabrication can be a great alternative, but be prepared for additional time and effort.

Good luck with your build, and I hope everything goes smoothly!

It’s cold out and I thought my heated seats worked. It seems like they aren’t working though. The light comes on at the switch for high or low. Has anyone ever messed with these before I get into it?

These are the specs of the cams sold by INTENSE Racing that I could find online. All credit goes to them



CAM-6705 - INTENSE™ Stage 1 Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 209/204, lobe lifts: .305"/.298", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .488"/.477", lobe separation angle: 113, intake centerline: 108

CAM-671 - INTENSE™ Stage 1X Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 210/221, lobe lifts: .321"/.329", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .514"/.526", lobe separation angle: 115, intake centerline: 111

CAM-672 - INTENSE™ Stage 2 Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 214/222, lobe lifts: .332"/.338", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .531"/.541", lobe separation angle: 115, intake centerline: 111

CAM-673 - INTENSE™ Stage 3 Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 222/228, lobe lifts: .338"/.344", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .541"/.554", lobe separation angle: 115, intake centerline: 111

CAM-674 - INTENSE™ Stage 4 Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 235/238, lobe lifts: .375"/.376", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .600"/.601", lobe separation angle: 116, intake centerline: 112

CAM-901 - INTENSE™ Stage 1X Turbo Cam, duration @ .050": 211º/204º, lobe lifts: .323"/.320", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .516"/.513", lobe separation angle: 116º, intake centerline: 110º

CAM-902 - INTENSE™ Stage 2 Turbo Cam, duration @ .050": 214º/206º, lobe lifts: .331"/.320", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .530"/.512", lobe separation angle: 116º, intake centerline: 110º

CAM-903 - INTENSE™ Stage 3 Turbo Cam, duration @ .050": 223º/214º, lobe lifts: .338"/.332", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .541"/.531", lobe separation angle: 116º, intake centerline: 110º

CAM-904 - INTENSE™ Stage 4 Turbo Cam, duration @ .050": 226º/218º, lobe lifts: .343"/.346", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .549"/.553", lobe separation angle: 116º, intake centerline: 110º

CAM-803 - INTENSE™ Stage 3 Nitrous/Blower Cam, duration @ .050": 220İ/232İ, lobe lifts: .337"/.351", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .539"/.562", lobe separation angle: 116İ, intake centerline: 112İ

this is just a PDF of the Ecotec family building book. Uploading here for archival reasons

Uploading a downloadable PDF guide to bypassing the passlock system in your 1997-2004 GM N body car which include:

1997-2003 Chevrolet Malibu
1999-2004 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2004 Pontiac Grand AM

Step by Step guide.

Step-by-Step Guide for N-Body Security Bypass (No Solder Method)​

This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough of the N-Body security bypass method for GM vehicles. The no-solder approach simplifies the process, ensuring an effective and accessible solution for bypassing the Passlock security system.

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace​

Ensure you have a clean and well-lit workspace. Gather the necessary tools, including a screwdriver, electrical tape, and a wire stripper.

Add Image Here: Workspace Setup

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery​

For safety, disconnect the vehicle's battery by removing the negative cable. This step prevents accidental electrical shorts.

Add Image Here: Disconnecting the Battery

Step 3: Access the Ignition Module​

Remove the dashboard panel to access the ignition module. Use a screwdriver to carefully detach the panel.

Add Image Here: Accessing Ignition Module

Step 4: Locate the Passlock Wires​

Identify the Passlock wires connected to the ignition module. Refer to the vehicle's wiring diagram for exact colors and placement.

Add Image Here: Locating Passlock Wires

Step 5: Bypass the Passlock System​

Follow these steps to bypass the Passlock system:
1. Cut the Passlock wire.
2. Strip both ends of the wire.
3. Connect the ends with an inline resistor (as specified in the guide).
4. Secure the connection with electrical tape.

Add Image Here: Bypassing Passlock

Step 6: Reassemble the Dashboard​

Reattach the dashboard panel and secure it with screws. Ensure all components are properly aligned.

Add Image Here: Reassembling Dashboard

Step 7: Reconnect the Battery​

Reconnect the vehicle's battery by attaching the negative cable. Start the car to confirm the bypass was successful.

Add Image Here: Reconnecting Battery

Congratulations! You have successfully bypassed the Passlock security system using the no-solder method. If you encounter any issues, double-check your connections or consult a professional.